Gweimui ’s Hong Kong Wet Markets

Gweimui ’s Hong Kong Wet Markets
定價:580
NT $ 458 ~ 580
  • 作者:Christine Cappio
  • 出版社:商務
  • 出版日期:2019-09-03
  • 語言:繁體中文
  • ISBN10:9620705645
  • ISBN13:9789620705649
  • 裝訂:平裝 / 280頁 / 12.9 x 21 x 1.4 cm / 普通級 / 全彩印刷 / 初版
 

內容簡介

  【一句話推介】
  Follow Christine to explore the wet markets in Hong Kong, appreciating their warm atmosphere and unique features plus getting a taste of French lifestyle.  

  【內容簡介】
  Contrary to the general impression that wet markets are smelly, dirty, and slippery, Christine finds that they are actually fun places to walk around and shop.

  As a French lady, Christine’s learning experience has not been without disappointments, such as being overcharged, given old veggies or pushed to buy more. Nonetheless, in Hong Kong, most sellers are generally very kind. Like in France, vendors remember the preferences of their regular clients. _e kindness of many sellers help her overcome the fear of speaking Cantonese. They even take time to explain to her how to cook this and that. It is the warm atmosphere that she loves most.

  Christine finds it exciting to discover lots of new foodstuffs such as Chinese yam. She even discovers ingredients, such as lye water, a kind of alkaline solution that is not used in Western countries. Last but not least, this book helps us understand the real French lifestyle which often sounds so “elegant” and sometimes “mysterious” to most people, who are curious to know the answers to the following questions:

  Do French eat foie gras and escargots every day?
  Do they always have meals that last for ages?
  Do all French people have a wine cellar full of good bottles?
  … and a lot more.

  Be it foreigners or Chinese people, everybody can explore the wet markets and learn to appreciate their atmosphere and benefits. Using the English-Cantonese vocabulary list and the guide about market specificities, start your own journey right now!

本書特點

  ‧ 講述自己在街市之親身體驗

  雖然Christine的婆婆警告她不要去街市,而丈夫則怕她會給街市的商販欺騙,諸如此類的障礙都不能減少Christine 探索街市的熱情,她積極學習用廣東話購物。此外,她不時遭遇失敗,但這些經驗反而成為她再勇於嘗試的動力,發掘街市更多有趣的特色。

  ‧ 比較法國香港街市之異同

  ‧ 淺談法國人的飲食和生活文化

  本書嘗試解答法國人每天吃甚麼及法國人是否每天喝酒等問題。

  ‧ 提供實用參考資料
  提供英文和廣東話對譯之購物詞彙、常見蔬菜水果及香料之名字和插圖,讓讀者學會後,方便購物。

 
 

作者介紹

作者簡介

Christine Cappio


  Christine Cappio was born in Lyon, a city in east-central France. She went to Paris in 1983 to study Applied Arts in Ceramics, where she met a young Chinese man who later became her husband. She has been living in Hong Kong since her arrival in 1986.

  Being able to speak Cantonese has helped her integrate into the local community and this vibrant international metropolis.

  After having worked for 20 years in the private sector and the French International School, she started in 2006 doing volunteer work for several non-profi¬t organizations, including Hong Chi Association, Virtus Foundation, Tung Wah Group of Hospitals, and more recently the Hong Kong Federation of Women’s Centres.

  Christine has published her ¬rst book Gweimui's Hong Kong Story in 2016.

 
 

目錄

Alexandre Giorgini Foreword I............................. i
Matthew Cheung Kin-chung Foreword II ........... iv
Lui Tai-lok Foreword III .................................... vi
Stephen Cheung Yan-leung Foreword IV ............ ix
Introduction by Christine .................................. xii

Part 1: First experience at Hong Kong markets
Warning: “Don’t go to the wet market!”............ 2
Observing.............................................................. 6
Hiding................................................................. 11
Learning how to buy ........................................... 14
Weighing issues .................................................. 18
Sellers’ tricks ...................................................... 22
Old produce ....................................................... 24
Chinese finger gestures ....................................... 27
Experimenting new produce................................ 30

Part 2: Markets in France
Temporary and permanent markets...................... 34
Vienne’s Saturday market..................................... 40
Beautiful markets................................................. 50
Christmas markets............................................... 54

Part 3: Markets in Hong Kong
Private and public markets................................... 58
Vegetable stalls.................................................... 60
Meat stalls........................................................... 65
Poultry............................................................. 70
Fishmongers’....................................................... 76
Typical Chinese stalls........................................ 81
Tofu stalls......................................................... 82
Grocery............................................................. 84
Egg stalls.......................................................... 87
Frozen and marinated meat, and fish balls......... 91
Medicinal herbs................................................ 93

Part 4: Differences between French and Hong Kong open markets
Meat.................................................................... 96
Opening hours................................................... 100
Price tag display................................................ 101
Who shops at the open market and why?........... 102
Displays............................................................. 104
Stalls................................................................. 107
Time allocated to market shopping.................... 109
Live animals...................................................... 110
Delicatessen....................................................... 111
Food tasting...................................................... 112
Environmental hygiene...................................... 113
Scales................................................................ 114
Payment methods.............................................. 115
Prices................................................................ 117
Rental................................................................ 118
Bargaining......................................................... 119
Containers......................................................... 120
About the vendors............................................. 121
Light and air-conditioning................................. 122
Weather............................................................. 124
Etiquette............................................................ 125
Touching the food........................................... 125
Courtesy......................................................... 127
Patience.......................................................... 128
Bring your own bag......................................... 131

Part 5: Similarities between French and Hong Kong markets
Tradition........................................................... 134
Good location & more choices........................... 135
No-fuss places: noise, crowd & flattery.............. 136
Holiday.............................................................. 139
Cheating............................................................ 144
Discounted prices at the end of the day.............. 146

Part 6: Advantages of shopping at theopen market
Food quality...................................................... 148
Local and seasonal produce................................ 150
More choices..................................................... 153
Local culture discovery...................................... 154
Better service..................................................... 158


Part 7: What do the French eat?
Dishes............................................................... 166
Breakfast............................................................ 168
Lunch................................................................ 169
Dinner............................................................... 171
Desserts............................................................. 172
Tea-time or goûter............................................. 173
Summer food: frogs and little fish...................... 177
Entertaining at home......................................... 180
Holiday food................................................... 181
Convivial food................................................ 188
Charcuterie........................................................ 190
Offal.................................................................. 191
Potatoes............................................................. 194
School canteen food........................................... 202
Restaurants........................................................ 204
Picnics............................................................... 206
Bread................................................................. 211
French toast.................................................... 216
Melted chocolate on bread.............................. 217
Bread with charcuterie.................................... 220
Bread with cheese........................................... 221
Sandwiches..................................................... 223

Part 8: Do the French drink wine every day?.. .........225

Part 9: Different varieties and tastes...............229

Part 10: Substitutes and fusion.........................233

Part 11: Idiomatic expressions related to food....237

Part 12: Markets’ specificities............... 241

Markets worth visiting....................................... 242
Street markets.................................................... 243
Hong Kong Island........................................... 243
Kowloon......................................................... 244
NewTerritories................................................ 245
Farmers’ markets............................................ 245
Public covered markets...................................... 246
Hong Kong Island........................................... 246
Kowloon......................................................... 246
New Territories............................................... 247

Part 13: Gardening
Why farming..................................................... 250
Other farming methods...................................... 255

Part 14: English-Cantonese Vocabulary of shopping at wet markets
Weights, special numbers, measure words and money /chung5-leung6, dak6-bit6 sou3-ji6, leung6-chi4 & chin2 /
重量,特別數字,量詞 &錢.................. 260
At the meat stalls / yuk6-dong3 / 肉檔.... 261
Pork / jyu1-yuk6 / 豬肉..................................... 261
Beef / ngau4-yuk6 / 牛肉................................... 262
Poultry / ga1-kam4 / 家禽.................................. 262
Other vocabulary / kei4-ta1 chi4-wui6 / 其他詞彙...... 262
At the fish stalls / yu4-dong3 / 魚檔........ 263
Seafood / hoi2-chaan2 / 海產............................. 263
Saltwater fish / haam4-seui2-yu2 / 鹹水魚...... 263
Freshwater fish / taam5-sui2-yu2 / 淡水魚..... 264
Other vocabulary / kei4-ta1 chi4-wui6 /其他詞彙.............................. 264
At the grocers’ / jaap6-fo3 pou2 / 雜貨鋪......... 265
Dried goods / gon1-fo3 / 乾貨.................... 265
Seasoning & Condiments / tiu4-mei6-liu2 & pui3-
liu2 / 調味料 & 配料...... .............................. 265
At the stall selling soy derived products / dau6-fu6
dong3 / 豆腐檔.............................. 266
Soy products / dau2-leui6 sik6-ban2 / 豆類食品......... 266
Gluten products / fu1-leui6 sik6-ban2 / 麩類食品..... 266

Part 15: Illustrations of some popular local vegetables and spices

Conclusion
Acknowledgements

 
 

Foreword I

  This book honors what no Hongkonger would neglect: the appetite for fine cuisine.

  With subtlety and humor, Christine Cappio offers a glimpse into the intimacy of the city’s food markets. Her drawings describe the unique atmosphere of each location. More than a guide, she offers us a perspective. Coming from France, a country which attaches great importance to its gastronomy, she decides to take a leap forward and sweep away her prejudices, with the ambition of becoming a true Hong Kong cook!

  Gastronomy is an ancestral art and a key feature of all great civilizations. China and France share this. As Lin Yutang (1895-1976), a famous Fujian scholar influenced by Western culture, put it in 1937, “every meal on each day is a Feast of Life”. Aren’t most of the “Thirty-Three Happy Moments” described by Jin Shengtan (1608-1661), Suzhou’s “Prince of Commentators”, related to the pleasure of eating? To achieve this, the Chinese have chopsticks, the French have their “coup de fourchette” (literally fork’s blow) which means they are big eaters.

  Wet markets are at the core of this common culture. Food needs to be looked at, touched and smelled before being sliced, simmered, fried or steamed, and eventually landed on our plates! There is magic in this whole process. This is why great chefs are, whether in Paris or in Hong Kong, surrounded by an aura of mystery. But there is one ingredient you cannot do without: freshness. She is the mother of all flavors. It is so true that the three words “fish”, “fresh” and “tasty” share the same character in classical Chinese: xian (鮮).

  In an era where everything tends to be sanitized, wet markets remind us that a city is an organism that has a soul, a heartbeat and also a belly. The Belly of Paris was the title that French writer Emile Zola chose in 1873 for his novel describing the life in Les Halles, the city’s central market. Our markets are living organs that retain their picturesque character and remain meeting places where colours, smells and noises interact. In Hong Kong, where space is scarce and disputed, markets are faced with the challenge of being replaced by the development projects of business or shopping centres. In this respect, Christine Cappio’s strolling in the wet markets is also a manifesto: let us fight to be able to experience this maze of alleys and backstreets, smells and flavors, with our grandchildren when tomorrow comes!

  The banquet of life is right in front of us, and the only question is how much appetite we have for it!

Alexandre Giorgini
Consul General of France in Hong Kong and Macao

Foreword II

  I am doubly privileged to be invited to write the preface for Ms Christine Cappio’s second book. This time it is about another fascinating Hong Kong institution – the wet market.

  As a cosmopolitan city where East meets West, Hong Kong has no shortage of modern and large-scale supermarkets. Many, however, still prefer to go to wet markets to source their groceries and fresh food, which is the essence of Cantonese cuisine and a distinct feature of Hong Kong’s social landscape.

  The traditional wet market is another symbol of Hong Kong culture with its special ambience and vendors typifying the Hong Kong spirit of self-reliance, vibrancy and diversity. Open daily, wet markets around Hong Kong offer a rich array of fresh groceries, from meat, sea food, to vegetables, fruits and bean curd, at a reasonable price, within convenient distance and with a warm human touch.

  When Christine arrived in Hong Kong from her native France decades ago, her mother-in-law is a local Chinese who had warned her to stay away from wet markets because they were “smelly, dirty and slippery”. But that did not stop her from exploring these bustling and colourful bazaars and finding their enduring charm. In the process, she gathered insights to offer us a complete picture of the wet market, from how to buy stuff to tricks of the trade, and show the reader how to enjoy the experience.

  These days, not many local residents go to wet markets. They prefer to shop in the comfort of supermarkets and convenience stores. Indeed, it is rare to find an expatriate lady in a wet market. So I highly commend the adventurous and inquisitive spirit that led Christine to immerse herself in an interesting feature of Hong Kong’s unique and traditional culture to bring us another delightful little book. This publication vividly reflects Christine’s strong affection for Hong Kong and passion for Chinese culture.
 
Matthew Cheung Kin-chung
Chief Secretary for Administration
The Government of the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region

Foreword III

  When Christine finished her first book, Gweimui’s Hong Kong Story, I had the privilege to have a preview. I told her that I learnt a few things from her manuscript, not because she knew what I didn’t know of about Hong Kong but her writings gave me a new perspective to look at what I’mfamiliar with. Her observations alert me to angles that I am not fully aware of. As a sociologist, I know very well about how unfamiliarity would help me understand and unravel the deeper meanings of the so-called familiar. Her fresh and observant eyes guide me to understand Hong Kong in a new light.

  In this second book of Christine’s (and I bet this will be the second title of the Gweimui series and I expect more to follow), she looks at Hong Kong’s wet market. She knows a lot about it and, I must say, a lot more than I do. I must confess that when I was young I hated our local wet markets (and whether they are open-air or multi-storey indoor is just the same to me). They are smelly, wet, muddy, slippery, noisy, and dirty. As a kid growing up in a public housing estate, I was often assigned to do some shopping for our family. It was an assignment; I was told when to go and what to do. I only needed to cross one road, with the assistance of traffic light, to reach the market along Marble Road and this was supposed to be reasonably safe and easily do-able (according to the expectations in the 1960s, we could handle this household task once we reached the age of nine or ten). Grandmother and / or mother would give me the instructions and then handed me the money. The incentive was that I could use 10 or 20 cents out of that amount to buy my favourite snacks.

  Frankly, I always had difficulties in approaching the stalls that sold poultry; I hated the smell of the fish table; and I did not quite follow the butchers’ “dress code”. But gradually I got used to it and when I grew up I began to see the richness of social life in our wet markets. The feeling is similar to how I came to appreciate bitter melons: you hated them when you were young, and then later you will change your opinion. Gradually, you’ll find most tasty when you grow older. The same for my encounter of wet market.

  Again, Christine offers her grounded observations of social life in Hong Kong. The choice of the topic itself will tell you how close she has got to ordinary people’s daily life in this city. As expected, she has an interesting (Gweimui) story to tell. Meanwhile I began to think: when will she start working on the third title?
 
Lui Tai-lok
Vice President (Research & Development)
The Education University of Hong Kong

Foreword IV

  Paris was where I first met Christine in 1983. The Chinese dim sum restaurant called “Hong Kong” in the 6th district was where we had our first date. A not so romantic first date in a very romantic city! It was Christine’s first time trying dim sum. Since then, we went there regularly. I

  did not cook much in Paris and ate all the time in student canteens, which served western food. I was not picky on food, but barbecue pork bun and shrimp dumplings were a big treat for a Chinese student who studied abroad in Paris. This Chinese restaurant was just like medicine

  for my homesickness and always reminded me of my hometown – Hong Kong. Christine had no problem eating Chinese food. I still remember I bought a can of snake soup in Chinatown for dinner in the dormitory. She ate it with some hesitation and told me that she felt as if a snake was crawling down her throat.

  Christine has been living in Hong Kong since 1986. During her early days here, seeing all the Asian vegetables that could not be found in Europe and the way how we cooked really amazed her. She was curious about Chinese cuisine and asked me many times why my mom put the green and red carrots in the soup but not the green and white carrots. She also found the thousand-year-old egg astonishing – particularly the pungent aroma and blackgreyish colour when she opened the egg. When we moved away from my mom’s place, we began our own adventures in the wet markets. Both of us had to work and we took turns to do the shopping, sometimes in the wet markets and sometimes in the supermarkets. We have lived in many different districts and got to know different wet markets. At the very beginning, we looked and acted like inexperienced customers, thus always suspecting that we might have been cheated. Now we are no longer novices, but regular customers who will be offered additional spring onions or a few dollars’ discount from time to time. We shop at least once a week together in the Tai Po wet market.

  My experience about French markets started when we returned to Lyon after our marriage. Going to the market in Vienne on every Saturday morning is a big event for Christine’s family. It is indeed a wonderful experience in the summer time. The stalls are set up on the streets and the whole area is turned into a pedestrian district. Every Saturday morning, one can virtually find everybody there. People spend the whole morning there shopping and chatting with each other. You stop every 5 minutes to greet someone you know. People talk about politics, weather, family or gardening. Usually you will end up in the local cafe for a drink. During my first visit to Christine’s family, the Saturday market of Vienne was where I met her family friends and neighbours for the first time. They were curious to see me in real – Christine’s Chinese husband. I guess the whole village had been gossiping about Christine’s family and wondering why Christine had chosen a Chinese as her husband because inter-racial marriages were not common at that time, particularly in a small French village.

  I have always enjoyed the more relaxed atmosphere of French street markets. I feel that the Hong Kong markets always give you a rushed feeling as people are at all times in a hurry to do their shopping. Whenever we return to France, we would still go to enjoy the Saturday market in Vienne. But now nobody is curious in seeing me with Christine’s family anymore. I have also become accustomed to the pace of French everyday life and take my time to shop and chat with people in the market.

  Over the past 30 plus years, Christine has transformed from a Gweimui who could not speak a word of Cantonese to a Gweipo who can communicate and sometimes even bargain with the stall sellers in fluent Cantonese. I am so glad that now I need not be bombarded with loads of questions about Chinese food anymore.

Stephen Cheung Yan-leung
President
The Education University of Hong Kong

Introduction

  I love green markets and I have always loved them. My interest started when I was about 10 years old and big enough to accompany my mum on her market errands at the nearby town.

  There was no market in the village where I grew up and the closest one was about 2 km from where we lived. It took us about half an hour to walk there and a bit longer to come back since we had to carry full bags of produce, meats and cheese, etc. The outdoor market took place once a week and I could only go during school breaks as we had school on Saturday mornings. My parents did their monthly grocery shopping at a hypermarket near Lyon and seldom brought their three children (my sister, brother and me), as we were easily tempted by sweets and other unnecessary things and more importantly we could have got lost in the long crowded aisles. Therefore, going to the market was a very exciting outing for me. I can still recall my joy at this fun event. Not only that I was helping my mum to carry back her shopping bags full of fresh food for the week ahead, but I could meet some of my classmates and taste cheese at the cheesemonger. And when there were sales, I could also get new clothes.

  Since then marketplaces made a deep impression on me, and getting close to vendors as well as meeting people have always attracted me. Every time I return to my hometown, I never miss this weekly event and I still find it as much fun today as it was when I was a child.

  I was so thrilled to discover the markets in Hong Kong when I came to live in this city back in 1986. They were in many ways different from those in France. The butchers’ stalls smelled stale blood and meat and the ground near the veggies and fish stalls was slippery, hence the name “wet” markets. I felt quite at a loss surrounded by so many foods I had never seen before, most of them without price or nametags.

  However, I liked the lively atmosphere of Hong Kong wet markets and these drawbacks did not discourage me from exploring them. Learning how to buy at the market had been an exciting journey.

  Talking about green markets led me to speak about food, French cuisine and my upbringing in a traditional French family. Food is a wide topic and I am always amazed by the passion with which people talk about what they eat and their willingness to give you advice on how to cook this and that. Food is not only a basic need to our physical life but is also of great importance to each nation’s culture, particularly at festivals. Eating is a pleasure. It is said that French live to eat when most people eat to live, and the saying is true with Hong Kong people. Food is life and health.

  Finally, I would like to encourage everyone and each one of my readers, be they locals or non-locals, to venture and explore these lively and cultural places and learn to appreciate their atmosphere and benefits. Be adventurous, try new ingredients and produce, don’t be shy and ask stallholders to share with you their recipes and experiment!

  Hong Kong wet markets are fun places to walk around and buy!
 
Christine Cappio
Note: As for my previous and 1st book, “Gweimui’s Hong Kong Story”
published in 2016, I will offer the royalties from this book to charitable organisations.
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